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Milan Fashion Week 2017 it’s over and now is time to recap fashion show highlights of top italian fashion designers. From a raft of staggering, couture-level gowns at Gucci, to sophisticated separates at Prada and Bottega Veneta, and fluttering bohemian looks at Roberto Cavalli and Alberta Ferretti – this was a week packed with proper fashion.
Versace’s show had everyone talking, partly because it was one of the most brilliant castings of recent seasons, and partly because the bombshell has embraced practicality. Get ready to be amazed!
Performance gear is not going anywhere next Spring. Giorgio Armani and Bottega Veneta got in on the trend with Bermuda shorts and tracksuits; more prevalent were sporty leggings, which were worn under gowns and suits at Gucci and Pucci, and paired with athletic rain coats and bombers at Max Mara. Speaking of athletic rain coats: Versace had some of the best, in rich plums and emerald nylons, although Gigi Hadid scored the winner in a sequin and bead-embellished navy number.
Alessandro Michele at Gucci takes the prize for most innovative shoe of the week: a two-in-one style, whereby a leather ballet flat detaches from its platform base to give its wearer a high-low option. At Versace, they were brightly coloured and mimicked Teva sandals; at Prada, they were equally sporty and shot with go-faster stripes; at Ferragamo, they had tubular layers and ankle-hugging mesh straps.
Prada did the fanciest but also the most convincing iterations of the trend for bra tops worn over a shirt. Some exuberantly sprouted feathers; others were plain black or plaid, and looked surprisingly sensible paired with striped button-downs. Elsewhere, Bottega Veneta’s were knitted and oozed sophistication under a crocodile cropped jacket; Roberto Cavalli’s were laced and embroidered, more mini-waistcoats than bras.
A bohemian spirit breezed through Milan Fashion Week, most obviously at Roberto Cavalli, where his yacht-abiding, island-hopping girl will love the velvet flares and ombre capes, but also at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, where tiered ruffled dresses were presented Eighties-style with Siouxsie Sioux waist belts. Alberta Ferretti also called on chunky black belts to toughen up her sheer chiffon creations, punctuated with Seventies embroidery.
Time to reconsider the sensual powers of…the drawstring. Numerous designers played with pleating and ruching in Milan, and the humble drawstring was employed to sexy effect, gathering techno nylon material tightly over the body at Versace, tempering plisse volumes at Marni, and nipping in waists on sporty little jackets at Max Mara.
Which was your favourite part of the show?