After Milan Fashion Week day one, where some of the buzziest (Alessandro Michele) and most legendary (Miuccia Prada) designers introduced their newest collections, day two brought us not one but two Hadid’s to the big stage that is Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017!
Max Mara’s creative director Ian Griffiths has been channeling hints of Nineties-inspired fashion for a while now, yet always infusing them with dashes of the Seventies and the Eighties. For his Max Mara spring/summer 2017 collection, however, he solely focused on the Nineties, catapulting us back in what appears to be the fashion industry’s decade of the moment.
Funky rococo and baroque Harajuku: think Sofia Coppola’s pop take on Marie Antoinette, played by Kirsten Dunst. The Fendi Summer collection, created by Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi, has the feeling of a funny short film populated by glittery lipped girls in black and gold styles covered with studs.
They wear a mix of sumptuous tapestries, extreme stripes, raw cut sails and tantalizing silhouettes. All carrying lots of “little games for adults” as Venturini Fendidefined them. The bags by the LVMH label, decorated with bow and refined ribbons, were dripping with opulent charms that have a sacrilegiously fun feel.
A tribal mood is making waves at Emilio Pucci. Bold tones, plays on color blocking and large straw hats, all finished off with a sporty touch. “I’ve studied the language and the archive of the fashion house” explained Massimo Giorgetti, the creative mind behind the LVMH label. “I had three challenges: color, jersey – a material that has alway been part of our DNA – and obviously, prints.” which became bolder and stylized. Visions of safaris, abstract animal prints transformed into eye-catching geometric prints…and it was hypnotic.
A feminist meeting, present both in the show and in the video projected in the space. Fragmented images from Past forward, the short film by David O. Russell made in collaboration with Miuccia Prada that will debut in Los Angeles in November. The collection tells the story of an introspective glamour, a Hollywood (after) party.
Since Jeremy Scott took the helm at Moschino three years ago, each season has begun with a guessing game as to what theme (typically something low-brow or relating to consumer culture) the clever designer will decide to interpret literally. As Gigi Hadid opened the show in a short wig, made up like a ’60s Barbie, in a gown that looked like paper (tabs and all), Scott’s interpretation became clear.