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And here it is! The first full report of Milan Menswear Fashion Spring/Summer 2015 weekend report. On it you’ll find the impact of the most expected fashion designers show.
Soon, a report of the remaining days will come to you!.
Stefano Pilati’s sartorial embodiment of fundamental architectural principals started the Milan menswear shows off in style on Saturday. Backed by an imposing set design, dominated with what looked to be the framework of a sleek building site, that actually echoed the urban renewal taking place on the streets surrounding the show’s venue.
Dolce & Gabbana
Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are seeing red. And as the designers like to hop onto an idea and ride it for all its worth, this time they literally took the bull by the horns and made the Spanish sport of bull fighting their starting point. So the toreros: matadors, picadors and banderilleros came to life on the catwalk in designer jacquard boleros and jackets covered in swags of ornamental embroidery.
As an alternative to all the three-dimensional embellishments, the designers proffered up the same ensembles in two-dimensional substitutes that saw the ornamentation morph into a printed fabric. “The Story of Ferdinand”, came to life in Milan Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Fashion.
In envisaging his spring summer 2015 men’s collection, Massimo Giorgetti used 1950’s and 1960’s furniture upholstery prints and images of California boys from the 80’s as his starting point. The MSGM spring summer 2015 man came off more as an Oxford, England import to California than a boy from the Golden Gate state – you know the kind that pegged his pants with rubber-bands, never wore socks with his Vans and grew up to be CEO of a multi-million dollar start-up and now wears Reef flip flops with his tattered khaki pants and half-ass tied necktie to work. A real eye-catcher that enriched the collection, were the 1950’s bone-color rimmed shades made by a Milanese brand called Super.
Trussardi is very much attached to the idea of creating a home when setting the stage for her mens collections. While in the past we have caught a glimpse of her fabled-family’s estates in Milan and the Italian countryside, this time she gave her audience some laid back late Prohibition-Era, Jazz-Age, tribal-African design — both in terms of props and her latest men’s collection filled with colorful pinstriped Zoot suits and stiff, oversized 1930’s style denim laborer jumpers.
For the last few seasons John Varvatos has circled around the idea of trying to bring a more elegant attitude into his menswear collections. This time that concept became the central theme of his show, which he called “A Day at the Opera.”
The idea being to “look at formality and bring it back to the casual world,” explained Varvatos. The designer principally did this through the shapes of his jackets and coats. It was through these menswear staples that Varvatos incorporated the idea of cutaway pieces inspired by black (and possibly white) ties. It made for a rather dandy collection that was still 100% in line with the brands relaxed yet refined rocker style.
At a preview before her menswear show, Donatella Versace talked about wanting to give the Versace man a new sense of easy for the spring/summer 2015 season. To do this she looked to the island nation of Cuba. The pastel and white wash color palette of its cities, its fascination with vintage automobiles, its graffiti street art, and most importantly the unhurried sensuality of good looking men with no inclination to rush- ever.
But it was the pink suit which opened the show that really nailed what this collection was all about. Clothing for men who are not only confident enough with their masculinity to buy a pink designer suit, they are so self assured they can wear it sans shirt.
Philipp Plein’s euro, rock, bon vivant style is certainly an acquired taste, but the German-designer certainly has no problem packing the house with international fashion goers — many of whom show up out of sheer curiosity to see what extravaganza he will produce next.
A crowd of 800 invitees packed into the stands at Milan’s Fascist- Era Caimi swimming pool to witness a show of synchronized swimmers, the rap lyrics of Theophilus London, and lastly, two tuxedo stuntmen with the determination and allure of James Bond, zipping crazy eights and dolphins flipping around the alighted pool.
There were a lot of novelties at the Bottega Veneta show on Sunday morning. And the changes started well before the first model hit the runway. Invites arrived to discover breakfast being served in an outdoor vegetable garden.
Guests sipped coffee while running their hands over lavender bushes or stooped to admire an impressive tomato patch. Then once inside the venue, the tried and true catwalk space, which hasn’t changed a stitch since the brand started showing at the headquarters, was invaded by undulating walls, originally created for the Salone del Mobile, that intentionally blocked and isolated the seating sections.
As if the Transcendentalist movement lives on today, Federico Curradi was moved by an “Exploration of the natural universe” theme and the pursuit of self discovery. A departure from last mens season that took on a more architectonic, urban hero theme, Curradi depicted a modern David Livingstone of sorts – in search of the great Victoria Falls of Zimbabwe. And if Livingstone had some of the tech, water-repellent sportswear Curradi proposed for spring summer 2015, his journey through the jungles of southern Africa would have been a lot easier.
To a toe tapping tribal beat, designer Massimiliano Giornetti sent out one of the strongest Salvatore Ferragamo menswear collection in recent memory. First, let’s talk about the choice to go with a giraffe print as the dominate graphic element in the show.
Animal prints always need to be handled with kid gloves if they are ever going to succeed and within this particular sub category of print, the giraffe motif is one of the most challenging. But it was the designer’s atypical scorched earth color palette of browns – from sand and beige to chocolate and rust- and sky blues that made the pattern work.
Perhaps it’s the fact that it is currently sweltering in Milan, but today’s Calvin Klein show, filled with sporty pieces cut from – or featuring- PVC, felt more cruel then cool on the catwalk. Designer Italo Zucchelli has long been an advocate of using the latest high tech fabrics in his menswear.
And more often then not, he wrestles those textiles to his will. Even in this spring/summer 2015 show his “performance” jersey tank tops and stretch tech cotton slim pant proved he still is a leader in this new fashion frontier.
Vivienne Westwood’s spring summer 2015 men’s show drew a full house of guests, which included pop-singer Joe Jonas of the recently de-banded Jonas Brothers — everyone jam-packed into the sweltering fashion space of Milan’s Museo della Permanente. A champion of various environmental causes like climate change and fracking, Dame Vivienne Westwood used this collection to promote her fight against cheap meat from animal factories, abuse of animals destined for slaughter, and more specifically the Pig Pledge organization.
Seeing as Angela Missoni has been successful in the past using surfers as inspiration for her menswear collections, it’s understandable that she would want to tap that vein again. To give it something of a new slant the designer imagined her globe trotting wave chasers residing in southern Europe and the North African cost next summer.
Which from a fashion standpoint leads to easy fitting pieces with a slightly Maghrebin slant. Walking out of a geodesic dome roof in the famous Missoni multicolored fabrics and a few dangling dream catchers, the models took to the colorful rug covered catwalk with a confident ease.
Walking into the Prada show space on Sunday evening was like stepping back in time. Into a hyper stylized vision of the 1970s. Where guests were treated to a deep pile brown rug covering steps, seating, and set. Its rich shade offset by an equally intense lapis lazuli blue wading pool framework for the catwalk.
Without a doubt this decade is Miuccia Prada’s sartorial safety zone. Its peculiar color palette, distinctive silhouettes, and unusual prints have been the inspiration for some of Prada’s most daring and directional collections. But that did not seem to be the designer mission this season. Instead, relatively speaking, she reined things in.
So, what was your best show?