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Day four and the last one at Milan menswear spring summer 2016 fashion week, with Armani e D’Squared as the top highlights of Milan catwalk! Get ready for one more Milan Design Agenda analysis! Starting…
Surf’s up at Dsquared2 for next summer. Twin designers Dean and Dan Caten are taking fans of the brand on an endless summer hunt with a playful collection that ran on the crest of camp without ever looking gnarly or whipped out. The duo offered up some great wetsuit inspired outerwear, cool bleached out denim jackets and pants, and bold baller mesh tops bonded to sleeveless white tees.
There was also a wide selection of vibrant board shorts, often worn audaciously with a pair of black lace crotch-snap ladies underwear around the waist, like a trophy taken from the conquest of the night before.
Tattooed bodysuits sported underneath most of the outfits pulled attention on the catwalk. But the first brand that comes up with a wetsuit version of those tattooed suits will be raking in the cash. When the Dsquared2 surfer hit dry land, the brand sent him packing – trekking to the next location where the swells are braking with neon lace-up hiking boots, stuffed to the gills backpacks, and nylon anoraks.
A sea and surf inspired collection was the perfect choice for the brand this season considering that the house just opened up a new store at the Bal Harbour Shops in Florida. There is no doubt that the twins are going to ride the smooth barrel of this show all the way to the bank.
It looks as if Giorgio Armani is in a very relaxed state of mind. His Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collection on the last day of the Milan shows was a clear study in casual elegance.
Armani has forty years of shows under his belt and he no longer has to prove anything to anyone. And in that same vein, the Armani man this season can follow his sartorial whims wherever they take him. If he wants to wear trousers that cut off at mid-calf, as if the wearer was about to wade into the lapping waves of an ocean, so be it. If he chooses to don a cross close vest sans shirt with his unlined suit jacket, nobody is going to raise an eyebrow. And he can certainly pull off some colorful geometric knit sweaters.
Just like with the Emporio Armani collection the designer showed earlier in the week, this offering featured a color palette that stuck closely to the Armani’s preferred blue and grey hues.
And everything about this show, from the easy and roomy silhouettes and light weight fabric choices to the subtle textural motifs, proved it to be a collection of unassuming elegance. Something private and personal and oh so stylish.
Ermanno Scervino unveiled its Milan menswear spring summer 2016 fashion week collection during the final day of Milan Fashion Week 2015. Embracing a neo-army inspiration, somber hues and an emphasis on natural fibers gave the range its character. Vintage linen was one of the featured materials, utilized for unstructured jackets and blazers alike.
Tackling camoufagle prints, macro houndstooth provided a sartorial counterpart. Meanwhile, sharp outerwear like the Napoleonic jacket struck a strong style chord in a well-rounded lineup.
With his Spring/Summer 2016 men’s collection, Christian Pellizzari interpreted the Italian aristocracy’s centuries-old fascination with the Orient. In gathering inspiration for the collection, Pellizzari studied the Oriental 18th century fine porcelain sets owned by Northern Italy’s nobile clans and the Baroque palaces that housed them.
Historically, such porcelain was considered the ultimate luxury item, because Italy at the time simply did not have the trained artisans who made such goods. In addition, Pellizzari worked with silk mills in Como to recreate ancient Japanese embroidery and jacquards for the silk tuxedo jackets of his collection.
Exotic floral explosions and koi fish were patterned onto aviator jumpsuits, bombers and utilitarian military green pants and robed shirts. In the same vein, the motif was also embroidered onto denim jeans. From daytime to evening, the Pellizzari man scooted around in sporty, skater loafers and lace-up tennis shoes.
One of the youngest men’s designers present in the main Italian fashion circuit, Pellizzari has a knack for serving up the type of nonchalant designs made with top luxurious materials the rest of the world expects. And he balances the use of opulent materials on contemporary silhouettes without ever going over the top.
Perhaps one of the more commercially palatable shows we have ever seen from Stella Jean, her Spring/Summer 2016 men’s collection was for an urban male whose defining fashion hallmark is his Burkina Faso stripes. This time, through her link with the Ethical Fashion Initiative, she wove the artisan work of the West African nation into her collection without using her clothes as a moving mural.
Instead, she used symbolic images like the stripe and the Gordian knot to link contemporary, urban society with the lives of the hard-working women of Burkina Faso’s artisan villages. Cool summer shirts with pomegranates and radishes and tees with rainbow strokes were paired with vibrant plaid shorts, military green, tapered pants or striped slacks. Strappy leather sandals with chunky white soles took Jean’s beach boy from day to night.
With Pitti’s “Constellation Africa” set dedicated to African designers, the fashion world here has started to really digest Africa’s potential to change fashion on a global level, but Jean, an Italo-Haitian designer, has been a pioneer in highlighting African talent since the inception of her brand.
With this collection, it was clear Jean has understood that she has a role in driving Africa’s influence on the worldwide fashion landscape. And with this Spring/Summer 2016 show, she demonstrated that perhaps the key to this revolution is telling Africa’s story in a way that the whole world can understand.
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